Custom suits are one of the best investments a man can make in his wardrobe. However, it’s easy to overpay for them or get the wrong fit. The most important thing is to understand the difference between the different types of custom and made-to-measure suits so you know which ones are right for you.
Almost all of the “custom” brands (Oliver Wicks, Indochino, Blank Label, Knot Standard) offer what’s called Made to Measure or MTM. You take your own measurements, or have someone else do it, choose your fabric and details online and they send you the suit 3-6 weeks later. This type of suit uses a standard pattern that’s modified with your measurements. Unless the patterns are perfectly accurate, this can result in a suit that’s very slim on you and fits like a glove, or is too big and looks sloppy.
The next level up is custom made or bespoke suits. This involves a consultation with a tailor who takes detailed measurements of your body and analyzes your build, posture, stance and more. They then use the data to create a paper pattern that will be used to cut the cloth for your new suit and then stitch the suit together. This process usually takes a week or more and often requires several fittings to get it just right.
Bespoke suits also typically use canvassing and lining rather than fusing, which can increase the longevity of the suit. They will also include a basted fitting, which allows you to try on the suit before it’s completely finished. This can help identify things like sleeve length, which is often a problem with MTM and even some bespoke suits. Custom suits